All you ever needed to know about olive oil but were
to afraid to ask can be found at a new museum outside
Limassol
‘Except the vine, there’s no plant
which bears a fruit,
of as great
importance as the olive.’
Pliny (AD-23-79)
DOUBTLESS
many of the athletes competing for Gold at this year’s Olympic Games will at
some stage make money through lucrative sponsorship deals. But the basic
principle of the modern games remains that of amateurism: a far cry indeed from
the first games held in Athens, when the winning athletes became rich overnight
on their winnings.
Instead of awarding medals, the ancient games
presented their top athletes with around five tons of olive oil. Strict laws had
been enforced which prevented ordinary folk from trading in this precious
liquid, but the winning athletes were given a special dispensation and a licence
to become olive oil merchants, and in turn all became exceedingly rich from
selling on their winning ‘liquid gold’.
The Roman Empire always equated
olive oil production with peace, stability, and security. Conversely, one way to
punish rebellious regions was to cut down and root out all the olive trees,
turning the area into a barren wasteland.
An olive tree takes around four
to 10 years to produce fruit, and another 20 years to become fully productive.
Such was the value set on the olive groves that if any man was found to have cut
down an olive tree on his land, he was immediately stoned to death.
If you
have any reservation about the statement that ‘all foods are medicine and all
medicines are food’ there can be no doubt that olives and olive oil fall into
both categories – a fact that the Prophet Mohammed was aware off when he advised
his followers to apply olive oil to their bodies on a daily basis in order to
protect against infections, in particular leprosy and ringworm.
Today, we
still turn to olive oil to sooth sunburn, we clean diamonds with it, rub it on
wasp stings to prevent swelling and to kill the pain, while lumbago can be
relieved by rubbing in a mixture of olive oil and cayenne pepper. Gall stones,
earache, and gum disease were all treated with olive oil. Babies were cleansed
with daily baths in the fruit of the olive as it was considered much safer than
using soap and water, plus there was the recognised side effect of boosting the
child’s digestive system through this daily washing ritual. One tablespoon of
olive oil and honey mixed in a glass of hot water and taken twice a day results
in a clear complexion, the disappearance of constipation, and is thought to be a
preventative against colon cancer.
Swimmers have swum the English Channel
covered in gallons of the stuff, cyclists rub it on their buttocks to prevent
saddle sores and, from earliest times, the medicinal benefits of olive oil have
been trumpeted when applied daily to a nasty outbreak of haemorrhoids.
You
can light your home with olive oil, cook with it, eat it as a paste on bread,
use the wood for furniture, drink its leaves when infused with hot water, bathe
in it, moisturise, and even preserve fish in the oil.
IT is only
right that in the foothills of the mountains between Limassol and Paphos there
is now a place to pay homage to this unique fruit.
The House of the Olive
is set high on a hill just outside the village of Anogyra, for which you turn
off at the signpost from the motorway onto the Pachna road, about half way
between Limassol and Paphos.
Lina Ellinas and her husband Andreas have
sunk their life savings into creating this unique commercial olive-pressing
unit, which also offers visitors the chance to learn more about the history of
olive oil making, to purchase high grade extra virgin oil, or browse among the
many olive-related products on sale in the gift shop, after which you can sit
down in the tiny café area and watch (when in season) locals bringing in their
just-picked olives to tip into one end of the pressing process.
These
will then be turned into olive oil, a process which takes in total one and a
half hours to complete. First, the olives are loaded onto a conveyor belt to the
de-leafer, and then the fruit is washed and electronically weighed. Then it’s on
to the crusher, where the marriage of high tech and old fashioned is seen with
the use of old millstones. After the crushing process, the olives progress to
the kneading machines, where the cold pressing system guarantees that the
temperature does not exceed 25°.
The system used is entirely ecological
as it uses two-phase centrifugal machines: these use no water during the
extraction system, and so the olive oil not only retains its unique flavour,
holds its colour and aroma, but there is no nasty liquid effluent in the form of
waste water to dispose of.
The olive skins that are left at the end of
the process are then mixed with prunings from the Oleastro groves to make
organic compost for the trees, bringing a full circle to the oil making
cycle.
Careful storing of the olive oil is vital and here the stainless
steel tanks are kept at 15-18°: this holds the quality of the olive oil; in
fact, everything associated with the process has been approved by the EU and the
HACCP standards board, ensuring that this is one place in the world that you
know you can completely trust the end product.
The oil produced is
excellent stuff. Many people still complain that it’s an expensive product, with
the (short-sighted) rationale being that with good old corn oil you can get five
times the amount for half the price of olive oil. I bought a 250ml bottle of
Oleastro Organic extra virgin olive oil for £3 and used it in the ultimate
cooking test – frying eggs. It was excellent: this oil can take a decomposition
level when frying that is 10 times higher than corn oil and without changing the
subtle flavour of the oil.
The Ellinas family live next door to their
creation and are proud of their contribution to the village, as their House of
the Olive has brought much needed passing trade through the lovely old village
of Anogyra, which has plenty else to offer the discerning tourist, with the
excellent Domaine Nicolaides winery, which produces the best glass of Rosé
(Aphrodino) on the island. On the outskirts of the village sits the abandoned
Byzantine Holy Cross monastery, currently undergoing a complete renovation, then
there are the old stone houses, cobbled streets, the stone-built water spring
that brings the cool mountain water down from Troodos; there is even an ancient
olive sellers’ cave, along with a couple of tavernas where you can sit and have
a pleasant lunch and pride yourself on your new found olive knowledge.
So
the next time someone questions the difference between virgin and extra virgin
oil, instead of agreeing this sounds as contradictory as a woman being ‘a little
bit pregnant’, you can swoop right on in there and give them the full benefit of
your knowledge gleaned while visiting the House of the Olive.
n The House
of Olive. Open seven days a week from 10am until 7pm. Drive through Anogrya
village following the signposts directing you to the House of Oleastro. Tel
99-525093, 99-565768, 25-991130